POTBELLIED PIGS -- JUST THE FACTS, PLEASE!
This is excerpted from a brochure
written by Helen Morrison,
for Pigs As Pets, Inc.
With some commentary
added by Nori Rambo
Potbellied pigs are clean, intelligent, affectionate
creatures. Pigs
are the fourth smartest animal group on the planet, following
only
humans, apes and chimps, whales and dolphins.
Their intelligence,
curiosity and charm make them appealing, but it
may also make them a
challenging pet. Pigs have special needs. They
make wonderful pets for those
people who understand their special
needs and are willing to educate themselves
and meet those needs.
They require extra patience and perseverance, but it is
more than
made up for by their wonderful personalities!
SIZE
All
potbellied pigs are miniature in relationship to their cousins,
the farm hog.
Farm hogs can grow up to 900 pounds or more.
Pigs have dense compact bodies,
especially when compared to dogs or
people. A 150-pound pig is much smaller
than an 80-pound German
shepherd or a 100-pound person. A 150-pound pig is not
as big as one
may imagine! Check out some of our Adoptable pigs to see!
A
typical, full grown, potbellied pig can be anywhere from 100 -250
pounds. The
largest registered potbellied pig is over 400 pounds
(not
recommend for the
health of any pet pig). As with people, the size
ranges, but the average size
is somewhere between 100 and 150
pounds,
being less than 20 inches high at the
shoulder.
Pigs grow quickly until they are about one year old, them
continue
to grow slowly until they are between three and four years old.
So,
that 10-pound baby piglet will grown into a 100-pound or more
adult
--
don't believe anything else!
WATER
For Drinking
Ever hear of
the phrase "sweat like a pig"? Well, pigs do not
actually have sweat glands.
Pigs cannot sweat! This means they need
plenty of fresh water available at all
times to prevent overheating.
Male pigs can be prone to urinary tract
infections and other
disorders. Make sure all male pigs have plenty of fresh
water
available at all times and that they drink it.
If your pig seems
reluctant to drink water, add a little fruit juice
(like apple juice) or some
Gatorade or similar sports type drink to
the water. Just enough to add flavor
usually does the trick.
For Health and Safety
Pigs keep cool by splashing
in water or rolling in mud. Give your
pig a child's plastic swimming pool
filled with a few inches of
water.
Some pigs are afraid to step into the pool
for the first time, so
you
may want to float a few grapes or apple chunks into
the pool to
entice
the pig. Cut a little "doorway" in the side so the pig can
step in
easily.
INDOOR LIVING
Yes, pigs generally make good house
pets!
All pigs root. It the natural instincts of the pig, its how they
find
food in nature. You would not want to prevent a human baby from
learning to
walk, so why prevent your pig from rooting! It does not
mean you allow the pig
to root your entire house.
Instead, give the pig plenty of outside time in a
secure run or take
long walks so they can root outside. Or, make a rooting box
filled
with rocks or small to medium hard rubber balls. Sprinkle a
couple
of
treats in the box to teach the pig what it's used for. You can
also
sprinkle some Cherrios or pieces of carrot, popcorn, etc., into a
large
pile of blankets to teach the pig to root in it's blankets.
Pigs are
intelligent, curious animals. You will need to pig proof
your home, just, as
you would baby-proof your home for a toddler.
Some
people will clear off a
lower shelf or two, well within reach of the
pig's snout and put piggy toys
there. The pig will quickly learn to
take toys off its shelf only, making a
happy pig and happy people.
Pigs often watch where their food comes from, so
they can learn to
open cabinets and even the refrigerator! Plants may also need
to be
put up in high places, so they are not eaten or spilled all
over
your
floor.
Indoor Housing
Your pig will need a soft bed of
blankets or pillows. All pigs need
a "place" of there own to hide when they are
feeling insecure or
want
to be left alone. This can be a quiet room, a closet
or a large
animal
crate in a corner. You may also want to teach your pig to
sleep in a
crate or separate room, someone once wrote a 10-pound pig in the
bed
is cute, a 100-pound pig may not be!
Potty Boxes
Pigs can be
housebroken like dogs, to go outside and do their
business. But, they can also
be litter boxed trained. Or they can be
trained to do both!
In cold or rainy
weather indoor pigs may not want to go outside to
potty. If you choose to use
an indoor potty box, select one with low
sides or cut down an entrance. Pigs
don't like to step up and over
something to use the potty.
The box must be
big enough for the pig to turn around in. If the
bottom of the box is slippery
put a no slip mat in the bottom, under
the litter. The round dishes used for
draining water heaters make
good, inexpensive litter boxes.
Avoid using clay
litter, as pigs may inhale it (causing pneumonia)
or eat it (causing intestinal
blockages), both which could be fatal.
Pine shavings are inexpensive, old
towels can be used, adult diapers
or underpads make good box liners too and are
easy to wash or
dispose
of. Cedar is not recommended.
Pigs learn to potty
in a particular spot. Choose the potty box
location carefully because the pig
may not want to change potty
spots
later. When a pig is very small, take him
to the box every hour or
at
least every two hours when he is awake, as soon as
he wakes up and
right after he eats or drinks. If you are not home to
closely
supervise the pig, you can also confine the pig to a small area
with
its bed and potty box separated as much as possible. The pig
will
not
use its bed as a potty box, so it will learn to use the litter
box.
Or, you can put some of the pig's poop into the box, once the pig
smells
it; it should start to use the box.
Do not give the pig free, unsupervised
run of the house until he is
at least 6 months old. Pigs younger than that are
prone to
accidents!
If the accidents are not caught and corrected
immediately,
housebreaking will be more difficult. If a pig does something
once,
he remembers. If he does something twice, it’s a habit. If he
does
it
three times, you may be out of luck! Close supervision and
proper
housebreaking early on will help avoid problems in the future.
If you
catch a pig making a mistake, take him to the litter box and
let him finish
pottying in the proper place, then praise him. Clean
up the mess with a
commercial deodorizer made for removing pet odors
or vinegar and baking soda.
Clean up is important to avoid future
accidents in the same spot -- pigs have
strong noses and good
memories!
If possible, put a heavy piece of furniture
in that spot or a bath
mat and the pig's food dish and feed him there for a few
days. Pigs
do
not eat and potty in the same places!
After a week or so
clean the spot again. Wait a few more days and
when the pig is not looking
sprinkle some food or a couple of treats
in the area. The pig will think the
treats sprout from the rug or
floor and will not want to potty there
again.
OUTDOOR LIVING
Outdoor Housing
Outdoor pigs need s sturdy,
rainproof shed, barn or doghouse. In
cold climates, it must also be wind proof
and have enough room for
plenty of straw and blankets to keep the pig warm.
Ideally outdoor
pigs should be kept in small groups for extra body warmth.
Remember
pigs need plenty of fresh water at all times. In hot weather
they
need
a small pool or mud puddle to keep cool. In cold weather, be
sure
not
to let their water freeze.
Outdoor Runs
It is not recommended
that a pig be kept full time in a run or pen
with a cement floor. The pen
should give the pig plenty of room to
move around, a place for its potty area
away from it's housing and
food areas. We like pens no smaller than 8' x 16',
with access to
areas outside the pen for exercise or a 16 x 16 foot pen (which
is
the
length of the standard hog panels!).
Pigs don't jump high, but they
do like to root & dig. A 4-foot high
fence wills easily keep your pigs in, but
will not keep an
aggressive
dog or other animal out. If you live in an area
with stray dogs or
other roaming animals and creatures (i.e. kids), you may
wish to
choose a 6-foot fence.
Hog panel (available from your local farm
store or Agway type store)
is the best and probably most inexpensive and secure
fencing
material.
These panels are used by commercial hog farmers and are good
and
sturdy, for making sure the pig stays in its pen.
Chain link fencing
reinforced with chicken wire at the bottom may
also make a suitable pen, but BE
SURE there is no place a pig's
snout
can get stuck, caught or injured. Pigs
are curious and will root and
look for holes and ways to move the chicken wire.
To be sure the pen
is completely secure, you should dig a trench about 1 foot
deep just
inside the chain link fence. Fasten the chicken wire to the lower
6'
of the fence and extend it down into the trench. Fill in the
trench,
burying the wire. You can also put boards into the trench, bury
part
of the board, and fasten them to the fencing to secure the
bottom.
Picket or split rail fences will NOT keep a pig in, but you
can
attach a hog panel to the fence to secure it. That makes an
attractive
as
well as secure fence! A board on board fence will keep a pig in,
but may
require reinforcement at the base, so a pig can't dig out
beneath
it.
TOYS
Whether indoor or outdoor, all pigs love toys, especially any
toy
with food. Old magazines, old shoes, old clothes (wear them so they
have
your scent and give them to the pig unwashed), infant toys, dog
or cat toys and
balls are all good pig toys. Be careful, piglets can
get caught in sleeves,
bottons, snaps, etc.
Pigs also enjoy "Buster Cubes" (Petsmart.com) and
Manna-balls
(Pigstuff.com) filled with food or treats. Or you can make your
own
inexpensive version from a whiffle ball, 2-liter soda bottle or
plastic
milk jug. Stuff the whiffle ball with plain air-popped
popcorn, food pellets,
frozen peas, etc. Or, punch holes in the soda
bottle or milk jug, making sure
they are big enough for the food to
fall out when the toy is pushed or rolled.
Put the treat in the
bottle
or jug and the pig will push it around so the
treats or food will
fall
out. For overweight or bored pigs, you may consider
feeding the
entire food ration this way too -- it's good mental stimulus
and
exercise!
HEALTH CARE
It can be difficult to find a vet willing and
able to treat
potbellied pigs. Potbellied pigs are NOT farm hogs. There
are
differences in their medical treatment. Before allowing your vet to
sedate
your potbellied pig, be sure he knows the types of anesthesia
to use and the
amounts. The wrong drugs or dosages can be harmful or
fatal to your pet. For
more information go to our Library or the
NAPPA Web site.
Pigs are also
susceptible to Porcine Stress syndrome, a condition
where the pig is so
stressed out that he can literally drop dead. If
your pig is "freaking" out for
a sustained period of time (not just
for a few minutes when you pick him up),
stop and let him calm down
before continuing with whatever you are
doing.
The most common potbellied pig health problems are diet
related.
Overweight pigs suffer from heart problems, blindness and
arthritis.
Underfed pigs (often in an attempt to keep them small) usually
die
from malnutrition or complications from malnutrition.
Pigs need lots of
fresh water at all times. Given water and the
right diet, good housing and
plenty of love, your pig should remain
happy and healthy for many
years.
Vaccinations
Potbellied pigs are susceptible to several contagious
diseases. Even
if you and your pig are never around other pigs, you should
have
your
pig vaccinated every 12 months. Your vet should also check you
pig's
eyes, ears, feet, tusks and general appearance.
Most vets also include
a dose of Ivomec along with the vaccinations
to prevent worms and
mange.
Pleurogard 4 covers: hemophiles, pleuro pneumonia, rhinitis
and
erysipelas
Respisure covers: mice-plasma pneumonia
Spaying and
Neutering
Every pet pig should be spayed or neutered.
Male pigs are
fertile as early as 2 months old. Intact male pigs do
not make good pets, the
tend to "hump" everything. Their mouths will
foam constantly and they often
"mark their territory" with a pungent
smelling fluid.
Intact females often
get "PMS" and may forget their potty training
while they are in heat. Generally
females go into heat every three
weeks.
Eyes and Ears
Some pigs are prone
to eye problems, so check our pigs eyes for
irritation or stuck eyelashes, or
eyelashes that may curve into the
eye and cause irritation (entropian -- a
condition that can be
corrected by surgery done by your vet). Some pigs have
naturally
weepy
eyes that produce sticky, brownish tears. Wipe away the goo
with a
soft, warm, damp cloth or baby wipes. You can also use a
little
Vaseline around the eye to keep the brownish tears from caking
on
the
pigs face, it will also help to soften any brownish gook
already
caked
there for easy removal.
Pigs sometimes get a brown waxy
build up inside their ears - this is
normal and does not mean your pig is
dirty. Wipe the outside part of
the ear gently with a soft cloth. Stay away
from the ear canal and
inner ear. DO NOT try to clean deep inside the ear. Do
not flush the
pigs ears out, liquid in the ear can cause deafness and
balance
problems. These procedures are best left for your vet.
Tusks and
Hooves
All pigs grow tusks. Females grow small, sharp tusks that
rarely
stick out of their mouths. Neutered males will have a set
protruding
from their lips by age 1 1/2 to 2. Tusks do not have to be
trimmed
unless there s a reason to do so. For example, if the pig is
around
small children or if the tusks are bothering the pig. If your pig
is
calm and will allow it, you can gently file the tusks. If you pig
is
nervous, you can take your pig to the vet to have the tusks trimmed.
Many
vets think this can only be done under anesthesia, not so --
even
for the
scared or uncooperative pig, you can e-mail Susan Armstrong
for a technique
that you and your vet can use to make this an easier
procedure for you and your
pig .
Skin
All pigs have naturally dry skin (remember they don't have
sweat
glands like we do!) It's not necessary to bathe your pig on
a
regular
basis. However it is fine to give him a bath when he gets
dirty.
Also, good brushing will help. Use any good lotion on your pig's
skin
as often as you like, which will help to keep the skin soft.
Just be sure your
pig is not allergic to it. You can visit for
information on pig
products.
FOOD
Pigs like to eat! Pigs will do just about anything for
food. If
left to their own devices, pigs will overeat and quickly
became
obese.
BUT, this does not mean you should starve your pig (see
health
information above). It means your pig needs to eat wholesome
food
(manufactured just for potbellied pigs -not commercial hog
foods,
dog
foods or table scraps) with limited treats.
A pig's size (height
& length) is determined by his genes --not by
his diet (unless he is overfed
and becomes overweight). Underfeeding
a
potbellied pig will not "keep them
small" and is simply cruel!
Your pig needs a food formulated especially for
potbellied pigs,
with no more than 14% protein. Never feed a pig dog food -- it
is
too
high in fat, salt and protein. Good potbellied pig foods are
available
in most local feed stores and on line at or .
Amount
The proper amount of
food for your pig depends upon a lot of
different factors: the pig's age, size,
activity level and
environment, for feeding guidelines go to . Feed your pig
the proper
amount at least twice a day.
Size and Age
The best way to
determine if your pig is at the proper weight is to
LOOK at him carefully. Make
sure you can see his eyes.
Pigs with naturally plump faces overweight pigs
may have extra fat
deposits around their eyes making it difficult for them to
see. Look
down at him from above. His body should look like a cylinder or
a
smooth tube. If he looks like he swallowed a basketball, he may
be
overweight. Look at him from the side, he should have a nice belly
but it
should NOT drag on the ground.
Growing pigs (3 years or less) need more food
than mature adults do.
Larger pigs (that is, pigs with a naturally large bone
structure,
NOT
overweight pigs with average bone structure) need more food
than
smaller pigs.
Activity Level and Environment
Active pigs, pigs that
travel frequently, regularly go on long walks
or practice and perform tricks
need more food than inactive pigs.
Generally, indoor pigs get less exercise
than pigs that stay outside
most of the time. Outdoor pigs with unlimited
access to a large yard
or very large run generally get more exercise walking
around.
BUT, if the pig gets plenty of grazing or access to fallen fruits
or
acorns (acorns can be toxic to the kidneys when eaten in large
doses)
and
grass, take this into account when determining how much food and
treats he
needs.
Fresh Fruits and Vegetables
Supplement your pig with plenty of
fresh, leafy vegetables. Iceberg
lettuce is ideal because it helps the pig feel
full, but has no fat
and very few calories. Some pigs are picky and won't eat
everything.
Fruit and starchy vegetables (peas, corn, potatoes) can
be
fattening, so keep those to a minimum. Freeze grapes or cucumber
slices for
treats.
Generally 1 cup of fresh fruits and vegetables is fine for
most
pigs. If you pig spends the day grazing on your lawn or eating
your
flowers, cut back on this amount.
These types of supplements help to
add variety to your pigs diet,
but are not necessary to be fed everyday as long
as you have the pig
on a good quality potbellied pig food.
Treats
Pigs
LOVE treats! But, be careful not to go overboard on the treats.
Pigs will eat,
as much as you give them and will act as if they are
starving -- if you are
feeding your pig properly, this is no more
than
an ACT - don't give in!
Good treats are pain, air-popped popcorn, carrot slices, individual
pieces
of dry cereal (Cheerios or Chex). Remember to include the
treats fed during
training sessions when deciding how much food your
pig is getting -- those
treats can add up!
Some people measure out a set amount of treats (say 1/4
cup for
cereal) for a specified amount of time (1 - 2 days). This makes
it
easier to determine exactly how many treats the pig is
getting.
Vitamins
You can give your pig one children's complete vitamin
everyday.
